Molded Fizzing Bath Salts

Here is a design idea for

molded bath salts that can be fun,

especially if you like a bit of a

challenge! Now, please don't ask

me why I tackled this idea, but I can

tell you that I was after some shell

designs for fizzing molded bath salts

(aka bath bombs), and the majority of

shells are very fragile ... dainty

designs do not seem to hold up in

a molded bath salt. From my experience,

molded salts need a sturdy and solid

mold, otherwise little appendages can

break off very easily, either during

mold release or during any handling

after packaging.

Although this particular method is

a bit more difficult to make than using

candy molds or other simple molds,

the end result is a nice handmade

bath salt with an imprinted design ...

in this case, a sea star, (otherwise

known as a starfish).  It can be a

bit tricky at first, but once you

get the hang of it, you can create

unique molded fizzies with a variety

of designs, such as flowers, leaves,

butterflies, shells and other shapes.

The following is the recipe I have

the most experience with. This is

for a single batch of the mixture,

which can be doubled if preferred.

But, for beginners, a single batch

is best, as once the mixture gets

moistened and is ready for the molds,

you need to work fast ...

so it's best to start off making

small batches and then after some

practice, a double or triple batch

may be easier for you to work with.

Here's the recipe ...

2 T. citric acid (fine or extra fine)

2 T. corn starch

4 T. baking soda

1 T. light carrier oil

1/2 t. scented oil

Witch hazel in a spray bottle

Bath Salt Mix - Dry

There are several carrier oils you

can use ... for instance: sunflower,

almond, apricot or peach kernel,

rice bran, and grapeseed all work well.

Some carrier oils can be too heavy

for bath salts and will be too oily,

such as castor. This is important

to note, not only for the skin, but

also for the shower or bath tub!

Your scented oil can be either

fragrance oil or essential oil,

but if using essential oil, you

only need a few drops or so.

(You will find additional oils

mentioned at the bottom of this post.)

After your dry ingredients have

been measured and mixed together,

add your oil and scent and mix well ...

this mixture can sit for as long as

you need it to until you are ready

to wet your mixture to press into molds.

Then, when you are ready to mold your

mixture, (and not a moment sooner!),

spritz the mixture with witch hazel.

Rubbing alcohol (isopropyl)can also 
be used, although it has a slight

odor and is not a natural ingredient.

Unless you have purchased a true

witch hazel hydrosol, most witch

hazel has some isopropyl in it.

Bath Salt Mix - Wet

The number of times you will need

to mist will vary depending upon your

spray bottle. My misting bottle that

I use for these requires that I depress

(spray) about seven times for a single

batch ... as soon as they've been

spritzed, mix well with a fork and

hurry to get your mixture pressed

into molds. A dough scraper works

quite well to level out the backs

of your molds once they've been

filled. Tip ... if you scrape in

the direction of nearby empty molds

on the tray, some of the excess

mixture will fill the empty molds

and you will have less waste.
You want the mixture to be wet 
enough to stick together in the 
mold, but not overly wet ... 
it should be similar to a "dough" 
texture, NOT a "batter!"

If you wish to add some color,

soap-safe colorants can be used,

or, you can mix some powdered

botanicals for natural colorants

into your carrier oil before mixing.

Cosmetic grade oxide powders can

also be mixed with your oil to

dissolve ahead of time ... if you

add them directly, you can make

speckles, if you should desire

such a look. Food coloring is

not preferred, although they

can work in small amounts if

you want to practice making

these prior to ordering your

real supplies.

The following design came about from

a combination of two mixtures being

pressed into one mold ... it kind

of gives a crumbly effect. For instance,

a "tart" such as this could be scented

with a berry scent and with the use

of another color, with the same

mold, another type of scent can

be used to create an entirely

different result.

Molded with two mixtures at the same time

To make an imprinted design, such as

this sea star, you will need a shape

to insert into the bottom of the mold.

This is a plastic piece, which has

been coated with some carrier oil

and placed in the bottom of a

mini muffin tin. (It is my opinion

that this step keeps the plastic

shape from sticking to the bath

salt mix.)  Simply press your salts

mixture into the mold, making sure

you have pressed firmly up against

the embossing piece. After your

salt mixture has hardened enough

for easy removal from the tray

(tips will follow), use a thin

metal pick (a poultry lacer does

the trick for me) to gently pry

the edges of the plastic design

piece (sea star in this case)

from the bath salt, and allow

it to sit, untouched to harden.

Ready for mixture to be pressed into tray

Whether using the imprinted design

or a candy mold design, allow the

mold tray to sit untouched after

filling the molds until the mixture

has dried ... depending on the humidity,

this can be anywhere from fifteen

minutes to a half hour. To release

from your mold, you will do these

in similar fashion to a pineapple

upside down cake ... secure and

flip over. For instance, if using

a candy mold, place a piece of wax

paper over the filled tray and then

a rigid piece of cardboard or a

flat tray over that and turn it

all upside down (making sure to

securely hold the wax paper and

rigid backing or tray in place)

so the mold will release its

contents onto the wax paper

and tray. By using a rigid

backing of some sort, or a tray,

you can then move your molded

salts to a dry place where they

can cure (harden) before placing

them in an airtight wrapping or

container; this can take about 
a day or so.  (If humidity is high, 
they can be placed in an oven
that is not turned on.)

Ready for shaped insert to be removed

When removing the shape, it seems 
to make things easier if you first 
gently pry the outside edges of it 
up first, all the way around, then 
go around again once it has been 
loosened and it will then come up 
easily.  Be careful not to disturb 
the bath salt when lifting the piece
away from it ... the use of tweezers
may help.

A word of caution ... never let

bath salts sit in the molds for

too long ... they can stick to

plastic candy molds, or in the case

of using a plastic imprinted design,

it can make it almost impossible

to remove the plastic design piece.

These can be used in the bath, as

well as in a shower ... simply use a

large plastic tumbler with a small

bath salt, or a portion of a larger

one, fill with water, and use

for an emollient rinse.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Some other light carrier oils:

Camellia

Hazelnut

Hemp Seed

Jojoba

Some that are heavier and most likely

should not be used in bath salts: 

Avocado

Babassu

Macadamia Nut

Olive

Note that we have purposely left

off some available oils as we have

read that they can go rancid rather

quickly. Since some people keep

bath salts around for awhile,

it may be best to select oils

that have a longer shelf life.

However, grapeseed is listed,

as it's considered a nice,

lightweight oil, although it

may not have a prolonged

shelf life. Carrier oils

that have gone rancid take

on a funny smell, so it's

best to keep your oils in

a cool, dark place ... this

includes your refrigerator.

Other items, such as hydrosols,

are also best kept there ...

just make sure you have

properly labeled your bottles

so everyone else who uses

the refrigerator is aware.

Although natural ingredients

are not toxic, one would surely

be surprised to take a sip of

witch hazel if they thought

it was water!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Happy Molding!!

Kathy

Finished